As winter approaches, the Netherlands comes alive with the festive cheer of Sinterklaas, one of the country’s most cherished traditions. Sinterklaas, or Saint Nicholas, is a legendary figure celebrated annually on December 5th. The festivities surrounding his arrival and the customs that follow are deeply rooted in Dutch culture. Let’s dive into what Sinterklaas is, how it is celebrated, and why this beloved Dutch tradition holds a special place in the hearts of both children and adults in the Netherlands.
Who is Sinterklaas? (and the difference with Santa Claus)
Sinterklaas is based on Saint Nicholas, the patron saint of children, sailors, and merchants. He is traditionally depicted as a stately man with a long white beard, dressed in a red bishop’s robe and mitre, and carrying a golden staff. Unlike Santa Claus, who delivers gifts on Christmas Eve, Sinterklaas arrives in the Netherlands in mid-November and the main celebration takes place on the evening of December 5th, known as Sinterklaasavond or Pakjesavond (Present Evening). Sinterklaas arrives by boat from Spain and then rides on horseback, while Santa Claus arrives from the North Pole in a sleigh with flying reindeer.
The arrival by ship
One of the most exciting events associated with Sinterklaas is his grand arrival by ship, known as “de intocht van Sinterklaas”. Each year, Sinterklaas is said to travel from Spain to the Netherlands, arriving in a different Dutch city or town by steamboat. This event usually takes place in November and is broadcast live on national television. His arrival by boat each year traditionally marks the official start of the festive season.
The procession on a white horse:
– Welcoming ceremony: Upon arrival at the harbor, Sinterklaas is welcomed by the mayor and enthusiastic crowds, including many children who eagerly await his appearance.
– Zwarte Piet: Sinterklaas is accompanied by his Moorish helpers, known as Zwarte Piet or Pieten, who are traditionally portrayed with blackened faces, colorful costumes, and curly wigs. In recent years, this portrayal has sparked controversy and led to a gradual shift towards more culturally sensitive interpretations, such as Roetveegpiet (Soot Piet), where the Pieten have sooty smudges instead of full blackface.
– Parade: Following the welcoming ceremony, a festive parade ensues with Sinterklaas riding a white horse through the streets, distributing sweets and gingerbread cookies (pepernoten) to the delighted children.
Festivities and traditions
Shoe tradition
One of the most beloved Sinterklaas traditions is the shoe tradition. Starting from his arrival until December 5th, children place their shoes by the fireplace or radiator before going to bed. They also leave a letter and a wish list with all the presents they would like to receive, and a carrot or hay for Sinterklaas’s horse. In the morning, the children find small gifts, candies, or pepernoten in their shoes, left by Sinterklaas and his helpers.
Pakjesavond (Present Evening)
The highlight of the Sinterklaas celebration is Pakjesavond on December 5th. Families gather to exchange gifts and enjoy a festive meal. The gifts are often accompanied by humorous and creative rhyming poems (Sinterklaasgedichten) that poke fun at the recipient’s habits or deeds over the past year. The evening is filled with laughter, joy, and a sense of togetherness.
Sinterklaas songs and plays
Throughout the season, children and adults alike sing traditional Sinterklaas songs that add to the festive atmosphere. Schools, community centers, and theaters may also stage Sinterklaas plays and performances, further immersing everyone in the holiday spirit.
Treats and delicacies
Sinterklaas celebrations are incomplete without indulging in an array of traditional Dutch treats:
– Pepernoten and kruidnoten: Small, spiced cookies that are a staple of the Sinterklaas season.
– Speculaas: Spiced shortcrust biscuits often shaped like Sinterklaas or other festive figures.
– Chocolate letters: Large chocolate letters, typically the first letter of the recipient’s name, are a popular Sinterklaas gift.
– Marzipan: Sweet, almond-based confectionery shaped into various forms such as fruits, animals, or even tiny Sinterklaas and Piet figures.
– Borstplaat: A sugary, melt-in-the-mouth treat made from sugar, butter, and milk, available in various flavors like vanilla, cocoa, or coffee.
Adapting traditions of Sinterklaas
While the core elements of Sinterklaas remain unchanged, there have been adaptations in recent years to ensure inclusivity and cultural sensitivity. Originally, Zwarte Piet (Black Piet) was described as a Moorish servant or helper to Sinterklaas, and he was traditionally portrayed with full blackface, often accompanied by a colorful Renaissance-style costume. The portrayal of Zwarte Piet has been a focal point of changes, with many communities and organizations adopting alternatives like Roetveegpiet (Soot Piet) to address concerns about racial stereotyping. The soot on the face of Roetveegpiet is meant to represent the dirt and ash Piet acquires while climbing down chimneys to deliver gifts to children, which fits within the narrative of the Sinterklaas tradition.
Sinterklaas in Amsterdam
On the first Sunday in November, the good Saint arrives with his ship at the Maritime Museum, after a trip on the river Amstel and the Nieuwe Herengracht. Sinterklaas then goes through the city center on his horse with his helpers. During the parade, 4,500 kilos of candy are distributed, and an average of between 300,000 and 400,000 large and small children of all ages come to watch.
Sinterklaas is a deeply cherished tradition that brings joy and a sense of community to the Netherlands as winter sets in. From the grand arrival by ship and the festive parades to the intimate family gatherings and delightful treats, the celebration of Sinterklaas is a magical time that captures the heart and spirit of Dutch culture. Whether you are a visitor or a local, participating in or witnessing the Sinterklaas festivities offers an enchanting glimpse into the rich heritage of the Netherlands.
